Basic knowledge of fabrics

　　I. Characteristics of fabrics - each fabric has its own characteristics, which are its own conditions and properties.

　　The characteristics of the material can be divided into raw fiber raw materials, weaving method, texture, weight, feel, finishing, wearing and cleaning performance.

　　Briefly explain the weaving method, texture, weight and wearing performance of the fabric.

　　1. Weaving method: fabrics include shuttle woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. Most of our clothing is woven with shuttle fabrics. The most common shuttle woven fabrics have plain weaves, twill weaves, etc., which refers to the fabric body structure in which the yarns are interwoven vertically and horizontally in an orderly manner. It is related to the texture, weight and feel of the fabric.

　　2. Texture: Each material has its own organizational structure. Due to the different materials and weaving methods, it produces different touch/visual effects. Such as: smooth and glossy cotton cloth, soft and light yarn, etc. An original cosplay dress pays great attention to texture, so be careful when choosing fabrics, and discuss cutting methods and materials with the tailor.

　　3. Weight: The weight of the fabric usually refers to G/M, (how many grams per meter). Needless to say, if you want a more elegant effect, you must choose a lighter fabric, and vice versa. For example, outerwear jackets, skirts, pants, etc. use heavier fabrics, while shirts use lighter fabrics. In addition, fabrics are also closely related to the season. Heavier fabrics are basically used in autumn and winter, and lighter fabrics are basically used in spring and summer.

　　4. Wearing and cleaning performance: Wearing performance refers to whether the clothes are durable, and cleaning performance refers to whether the clothes can be machine washed or need to be hand washed or dry cleaned. This is very important for daily clothes, but as far as cosplay clothes are concerned, it can generally be ignored. Sometimes in order to achieve the BT effect of the original, it is necessary to use very troublesome fabrics, and the clothes are not often worn, which will sacrifice the wearing and cleaning convenience.

　　II. Classification of fabrics

　　Fabric actually has multiple meanings. According to the material of the fabric, it is called textile fiber.

　　Although there are many varieties of textile fibers, they can be basically divided into two categories: natural fibers and chemical fibers:

　　★ Natural fibers refer to textile fibers that exist in nature or are directly obtained from artificially cultivated animals.

　　★ Chemical fibers are textile fibers made from natural or synthetic polymers through certain methods.

　　★ Man-made fibers refer to fibers that use natural polymers (such as wood, bagasse or animal fibers, etc.) as raw materials and are processed and spun.

　　★ Synthetic fiber is a fiber made of synthetic polymer giant spinning using petroleum, coal, natural gas and some agricultural and sideline products as raw materials.

　　Properties of natural fibers

　　(1) Cotton

　　1. Strong moisture absorption, comfortable to wear, easy to dye, and easy to shrink.

　　2. Alkali-resistant and acid-resistant, mercerized cotton is a cotton fabric treated with caustic soda.

　　3. Cotton fibers are relatively heat-resistant, but they are not suitable for long-term treatment above 100 degrees. For example, if the ironing temperature is about 190 degrees, the cotton fabric will be sprayed with moisture during ironing, which is conducive to ironing.

　　4. Cotton fiber is soft, weak, cotton fabric feels good, comfortable to wear, washable, but easy to wrinkle, suitable for all kinds of clothing and bedding in four seasons.

　　(2), hemp

　　There are many varieties of hemp, including ramie, linen, jute, hemp, etc. At present, the first two are the most used in fabrics. Hemp and cotton have some of the same properties.

　　1. Strong hygroscopicity, alkali resistance but not acid resistance.

　　2. The heat resistance is also good. The ironing temperature can reach 190 degrees - 210 degrees, which is easy to burn.

　　3. The strength is higher than that of cotton, the hemp fiber is harder, the weakness is poor, the fabric is easy to wrinkle, harder than cotton fabric, firmer and cooler. The so-called summer cloth is the ramie fabric that southerners love to wear, and it is not close to the body after sweating.

　　Ramie is a high-quality fiber among hemp fibers. It has the characteristics of coolness, moisture absorption, and breathability. It has high stiffness, hardness, stiffness, and is not close to the body. It is suitable for making summer clothing. Ramie and polyester blends are processed to make "hemp is really good", which has a cool style.

　　(3), Mao

　　Wool with a large amount of wool fibers for textiles is usually called wool.

　　Wool fiber is thicker and longer than cotton fiber, has a certain curl, and its surface is covered by a layer of scales. Due to the existence of scales, it brings a special property to wool, that is, shrinkage. Shrinkage refers to the nature of wool kneading in warm water and washing liquid to bite and felt each other. In life, it causes wool products to shrink after washing and the density becomes larger. Shrinkage is one of the reasons. If the scales are destroyed to make them smooth and flat, wool products will not shrink. Therefore, machine-washed wool sweaters sold on the market have undergone this surface treatment.

　　Use less, slightly.

　　(4), silk

　　Natural silk is divided into domestic silk and wild silk. Domestic silk is mulberry silk; the main variety of wild silk is tussah silk. Silk has high strength, slender fibers, softness and smoothness, and is weaker than cellulose fibers, with a unique luster. Silk fabrics are not only tired and thin like yarn, but also can make them plump and enterprising. They are high-sewing clothing materials and belong to protein fibers like wool.

　　Unless they were very willing, they would rarely use such exaggerated and expensive fibers.

　　Properties of chemical fibers

　　★ As clothing materials, there are mainly seven polyester, and their common characteristics are as follows:

　　A The hygroscopicity is generally lower than that of natural fibers, and it is easy to carry static electricity and dust after friction.

　　B Most of them have high strength, good elasticity, and are easy to pilling after wearing for a long time.

　　When C burns, it generally softens and shrinks first, and some can melt, produce dripping and drawing, emit peculiar smell, and the ironing temperature is lower than that of natural fibers.

　　D heat setting is better, because they are less hygroscopic, they can still remain as they are after washing.

　　(1) Polyester (really good)

　　It is the fastest growing fiber in the current chemical fiber. Commonly known as Diliang. The spun silk fabrics it makes include soft-looking yarn, Juliet yarn, Callis, and the so-called "hemp yarn" that is popular with women in the summer market recently. The blend of polyester and cotton is called cotton Diliang (cotton polyester), the blend with wool is wool polyester, and the blend with hemp temperature is hemp polyester. Its characteristics: it is stuffy, airtight, not easy to dye, with static electricity after friction, easy to vacuum, but not easy to shrink, easy to wash, and quick to dry.

　　(2) Nylon (nylon, nylon, Capron)

　　Commonly known as nylon, nylon, Capron, etc., its characteristics: good elasticity, high strength, high wear resistance, poor light resistance, easy to turn yellow in the sun, often used in socks, gloves and knitted sportswear.

　　(3) Acrylic (Oron, Cashmere, Exron)

　　It has the characteristics of fluffy, soft and warm, such as light weight, low price, bright color, high platform, not moldy or moth, and no ironing after washing. Suitable for autumn and winter clothing fabrics, such as acrylic knitted sweaters, spun fur coats, and blankets, etc.

　　(4) Vinylon (Vinylon, Saron, Colon)

　　After blending vinylon and cotton, it became a once popular vinylon cloth in the domestic market. Vinylon fabric is very similar to cotton cloth, and its properties are the closest to cotton fibers among synthetic fibers. Since vinylon is rarely used for clothing in my country and is mostly used for bedding, there is not much introduction.

　　(5), viscose

　　Its raw materials are natural substances, such as wood, bamboo, cotton lint, bagasse, etc. The spun fibers are also called rayon. Its fabrics are: beautiful silk, Fuchun spinning, artificial soft satin, rayon, artificial wool, etc. Its characteristics are as follows:

　　1. High hygroscopicity and flammable.

　　2. Smooth surface and soft feel. Viscose fabric has greater drape than cotton and linen, and is suitable for skirts and various clothing fabrics and linings.

　　(6), acetate (ester, acid) fiber (vitamin)

　　Most of them appear in the style of silk. In addition to being used as clothing fabrics, they are also often used as lining materials.

　　(7), spandex (Maridang, Lycra)

　　It has high elasticity like glue, so it is also called elastic fiber. It can be used instead of rubber bands, but the current price is more expensive.

　　1. High elasticity, high elasticity beyond other fibers, and good wear resistance.

　　2. The face does not lose its elasticity in cold wind, snow or sun.

　　III Fabric signature

　　Cotton:

　　Advantages: sweat-absorbing and breathable, soft, anti-sensitive, easy to clean, not easy to pilling.

　　Disadvantages: easy to wrinkle, shrink, easy to deform.

　　Second, wool:

　　Advantages: warm, soft hair, good elasticity, strong heat insulation.

　　Disadvantages: easy to pilling, shrinkage, felt reaction.

　　Third, leather:

　　Advantages: It has certain respiratory performance, high durability and high temperature resistance.

　　Color: The color of genuine leather is dark and soft, and the imitation leather is bright.

　　Fourth, nylon:

　　Advantages: smooth surface, light, durable, easy to wash and dry, fixed elasticity and flexibility.

　　Disadvantages: easy to generate static electricity.

　　Five, polyester fiber:

　　Advantages: good elasticity, silky soft, not soft, soft hair.

　　Disadvantages: poor ventilation, easy static electricity and hairballs.

　　Cotton:

　　Natural fabric, comfortable to wear, breathable, warm, but easy to wrinkle, not easy to take care of, poor durability, easy to fade.

　　Hemp:

　　Natural fabric, comfortable, light, breathable, but easy to wrinkle, not crisp, poor elasticity, itchy skin when wearing.

　　Eight, polyester:

　　Chemical fiber fabric, easy to take care of, crisp, no ironing, but poor air permeability, easy to generate static electricity, and not easy to dye.

　　Nine, silk:

　　Smooth and soft, good texture, colorful, but not easy to take care of, easy to wrinkle and shrink.

　　Silk:

　　Soft luster, soft and delicate feel.

　　Rayon: metallic luster, rough feel.

　　Silk - the fabric is shiny, soft and bright, soft and smooth to the touch, not easy to wrinkle, and has a certain stretch.

　　Silk and rayon

　　1. Silk: soft to the touch, elastic, soft moon silk chirping;

　　Rayon: It feels slightly stiff, has a wet and cold feeling, and is heavy.

　　2. The luster of silk fabrics is quieter, bright but not dazzling; rayon fabrics have a unique metallic luster, which is brighter and dazzling than silk fabrics.

　　3. Grasp the fabric tightly with your hands and put it away. There are few wrinkles in the silk fabric but not obvious, and there are many wrinkles in the rayon fabric.

　　Viscose - the luster is brighter than cotton cloth, the appearance is finer, cleaner and quieter than cotton cloth, the hand feels soft and smooth, the body is soft and heavy, and lacks elasticity. It is easy to wrinkle when kneading, and the wrinkles are easy to recover.

　　This identification method can greatly identify fabrics, but it has certain limitations. For mixed textiles, it is sometimes difficult to identify, but the sensory identification method is simple and easy to implement, and can be carried out without damaging clothes, which is suitable for general daily use.